WEBVTT

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Hello and welcome to this Animation Master tutorial about how

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to create something in Animation Master which should be printed

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out later on on a 3D printer, in my case

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a MakerBot Replicator 2.

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And it’s a quite easy process, but I want to

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show you what you have to have a look at

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and what you have to care about to get everything

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right and to print it out right away.

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Okay, so the first thing I want to do is

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I want to create a new object.

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So I just double click on the object folder in

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the pvs and now I’m just going to create some

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sort of object.

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I will lace, for example, a race or something like

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that.

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Something very simple.

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Because it’s not about the object here, it’s about the

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process to get to printing it.

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Okay, and here’s the first thing.

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I like to close my objects fully so that there

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is no hole in it.

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And for lacing an Animation Master, that is not possible

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from the beginning on, or at least not in the

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way that it’s looking good.

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And because of that I will just leave this little

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space here.

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And after that I will, for example, lace it.

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Now I will go to the Lace Options sections here

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and I will increase that because the Makerbot will print

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with quite high resolution and you will see the different

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polygons.

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Otherwise if I’m not going here, very high up.

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And it’s very likely that you will see them anyway,

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but it will just not be very noticeable for someone

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who doesn’t know that they are here.

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Okay, so we go to the 16 subdivision level there.

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I will lay that.

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And what you can see now is that I have

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a some kind of object, quite dense object.

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And let’s get rid of some normals.

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And normals are very important.

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So have a good look at the normals.

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As you can see, they are pointing outwards here like

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it should be.

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If you are unsure in which direction your normals point,

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you should go to the Tools or Options menu, go

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to Rendering tab, go to Shaded and you should deactivate

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the show back facing polys here.

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So it normally is on.

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And if you go to it and you set it

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to off, you will see the following.

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I will just flip one of the normals here and

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as you can see it will be totally transparent and

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we can see through it.

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And like that I can see where something is not

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closed.

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And because of that I will have this option in.

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Otherwise your Makerbot will, yeah, he will print something, but

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he doesn’t necessarily print what you are looking for there.

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Because of that.

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Please Have a look at that.

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I have been told that I don’t need to close

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the holes in my object.

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I have to admit that I never tried that, because

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I just don’t know what the Makerbot should do in

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this case, because how should we connect something now there

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is an object that has to be printed.

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The object has a volume, and because of that something

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has to be done here.

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And Makerbot can now assume that, for example, I want

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to close the object in this way maybe, but maybe

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I don’t want that.

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And because of that I just have to define it

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for him so that the state is clear.

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And Makerbot, the replicator too has not to guess anything

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because of that, I’m just closing everything down.

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And I have made good experience with that.

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So just go to the add mode.

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I tend to use the stitch mode for that because

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it’s just not deforming anything else here.

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So just press shift while you are connecting something.

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And like that I can quite fast close my object

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and mean that this part here is very flat, but

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that’s not a problem in general, because it’s a small

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part for my object later.

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And like that I just preserve the shape that I

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have formed around that.

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That is the more important shape for me.

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Because of that, I’m just doing that.

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And you just don’t have to worry much about how

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it would look if you are rendering, because that’s not

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very important for the printer.

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Okay.

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And as you can have a look at the normals

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again.

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I have to say it again, just have a look

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at the normals and do it in the right way.

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You will just get what you want and you won’t

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get anything you can’t handle.

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Okay? Another thing for printing objects in 3D is that

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you have to be aware of your overhangs.

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As you can see, we have now at this point,

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an overhang that means that the printer, which is going

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from the bottom up and printing one line after another.

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I will, for example, show you that with just a

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small object that I will create here.

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This is just to show you how the printer will

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work.

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You don’t have to do that in any case.

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And as you can see, this is my spline and

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it’s more or less a straight line.

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And now you can see the printer will go from

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here.

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Print this part.

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Print this part with a specified layer height.

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You are specifying in Make Aware.

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Make Aware is a printing software and it will just

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print, print, print, print, print.

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And to print something at this point, Make Aware or

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the MakerBot Replicator 2 in this case needs to have

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something to print on, because you can’t print in thin

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air at this point, for example.

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And it will very likely work at this point and

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in any case at this point.

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But it can be depending on the size of your

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object you are printing later on that you will get

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into trouble with this part here.

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Because at this point, if Makerbot starts printing this part

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here, at this point there is nothing to print on.

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And because of that, you would have to use support

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materials in makerware later on.

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The problem with support materials in the Megabot Replicator 2,

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in comparison, the Megabot Replicator 2X can for example, print

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with a different material, like for example, pva.

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The good thing about that, plastics that is water, not

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water resistant.

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Because of that, you can just more or less dissolve

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this PVA in water.

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And like that you could very easily get rid of

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support material.

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But the Replicator 2 can’t print with two different colors

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at this point.

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And because of that, you will have to have a

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look at the support material and you will have to

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manually get rid of that.

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And since the support material is the same material, like

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the material you are printing with, this can get quite

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hard.

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It depends on your model and it depends on the

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support material.

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And sometimes I tend to do my own support material

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and not my own support structure and not let Makerbot

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do it automatically for me.

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But in this case, I would say that you may

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run into trouble.

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You just have to try it out sometimes, because as

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I said before, in some situations, if this, for example,

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would be a very, very small object, like for example,

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I don’t know, maybe just 1cm in size or something

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like that, it will print nonetheless because the sticking to

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the sides here would be enough to hold some material

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at this point.

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But you just have to have a look at that

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and have to see if it’s working or if it’s

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not working.

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So try it out and don’t be, yeah, don’t be

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too cheap about your plastic because it’s really, really, really,

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really much.

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I can print from, for example, spool of 1 kg.

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The plastic is very, very light.

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And yeah, you will just have to see what is

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going on there.

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But in the end it will just not cost you

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a fortune.

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Okay.

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And that’s more or less it.

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So just to make sure that we could print this,

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I will just grab my outer parts here, the ones

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that may have or may be of trouble, and I

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just go and make them a little bit smaller like

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that.

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And in most cases this should print very well.

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I tend to have my own rule here is that

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I don’t go over 60 degrees of overhang.

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That means that, for example, this part is okay.

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If you are going to print with an overhang of

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for example 90 degrees, which would be this one, that’s

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just too much.

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But as I said, it depends on the size of

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your model and some other factors.

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And because of that you just have to try it

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out once in a while.

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Okay.

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And as you can see, we have an object here

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now.

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And all I have to do now is I just

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right click in my modeling window, go to Plugins Wizards

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and export.

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You can’t see it, but there’s a sterilithography model in

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brackets STL file that I can export from Animation Master.

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I think it started with 17 if I’m not wrong.

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And here is my export dialog.

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You can choose how often the polygons which are created

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or how often the patches will be will be parted

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or split into polygons here.

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And because of that you can just use for example

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one of these settings.

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And we are printing with a 3D printer.

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So you should go in a very high value here.

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I tend to go to 64 because it just doesn’t

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matter much.

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And there is nothing that, for example, on the rendering

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time or something like that.

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It’s just not concerning you here.

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Because of that, go to one of the higher values

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here, 32 or 64 and don’t bother with one, for

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example, okay? Just tell him where to go to.

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For example, I will go to this little part of

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my hard drive here.

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I will give it a name that I can reconnect

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or recognize later on, for example Tutorial part STL and

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just hit ok.

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At this point binary format is ok.

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And what I want to show you here is that

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Animation Master has a different sizing than MakeAware has.

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And the sizing factor you have to consider is 10.

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So if I import this to make aware this is

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MakeAware.

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So the current interface of the newest MakeAware edition.

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You go to file add, you get your mount and

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your part you want to print, you go to this,

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you just say that the object is of the platform

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and I just click here.

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Yes, it doesn’t matter because you have to go to

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the platform, but I will, for example, as you can

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see, have to rotate my object.

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Animation Master has a different coordinate system, but it’s really

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just a matter of selecting the object, going to the

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tool, going to this, and now just getting the right

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axis to set it in the right space.

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And now I just go to on platform, move on

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platform and I tend to print in the middle.

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But you can for example print several objects at once

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if you want to.

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So it really doesn’t matter.

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And as you can see, we have a quite high

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density here because we used the 64 subdivision level, which

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means that every patch in Animation Master is parted four

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times or eight times on each axis.

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And like that you have a quite nice model here

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it is on the build platform and as I said

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before, this has a different scale than in Animation Master.

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This scale is 20 millimeters, 22 millimeters on the x

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axis.

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If you go back here you will see that we

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have 22 cm on the x axis.

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So if you just use centimeters in Animation Master and

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you just use centimeters as if they would be millimeters,

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you are good to go.

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That’s the easiest way to go.

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Another way would be for example to just increase the

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scale here.

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That’s fine too.

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For example, with 1000 to get this to be in

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the right dimensions of 22 cm on this axis.

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But as you can see, it’s just a little bit

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too large for my Makerbot here to print because here

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is some overlapping over my box I can print in.

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The object is not suitable to be printed like this.

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You may have to part it for example, if you

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need to print something in that dimensions.

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But that doesn’t matter very much.

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Okay, so let’s go back to the original scale I

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have imported here.

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And again use centimeters in Animation Master as if they

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would be millimeters in real world.

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And like that you can create the right sized images

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or objects that you want to create.

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Okay, so.

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And yeah, we are ready to print now.

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You can see my makerbot is currently idle and can

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print with my USB connection here.

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And you just go to make it.

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Now you would use your or choose your settings, the

00:17:02.549 --> 00:17:04.109
quality settings for example.

00:17:04.277 --> 00:17:07.189
And you can use the pre built ones which is

00:17:07.237 --> 00:17:11.693
low, medium and high with different settings.

00:17:11.749 --> 00:17:14.397
You can see at this point or you can this

00:17:14.461 --> 00:17:18.005
indicates a little star I’m I have here.

00:17:18.165 --> 00:17:20.509
You can use a different setting.

00:17:20.557 --> 00:17:23.845
For example, in this case the medium for me is

00:17:23.885 --> 00:17:30.941
layer height of null point 22 or 22 and the

00:17:30.973 --> 00:17:32.705
original one would be this.

00:17:33.445 --> 00:17:37.341
It just depends on how high the resolution should be.

00:17:37.533 --> 00:17:41.989
Take in mind or have in mind that printing with

00:17:42.037 --> 00:17:46.431
a smaller layer height will take longer, but it will

00:17:46.463 --> 00:17:48.215
create the smoother surfaces.

00:17:48.375 --> 00:17:51.835
So it depends on what you want to achieve here.

00:17:52.415 --> 00:17:55.315
Here are the temperature settings and the speed settings.

00:17:55.655 --> 00:17:58.875
In general I tend to leave them as they are.

00:17:59.815 --> 00:18:04.679
With this, for example, if a print is not coming

00:18:04.727 --> 00:18:10.879
along well and for example it’s just too fast and

00:18:11.007 --> 00:18:13.637
something is going wrong with your print, you can for

00:18:13.661 --> 00:18:18.901
example go here and I don’t know, do it for

00:18:18.933 --> 00:18:23.105
example with 70 millimeters per second.

00:18:25.045 --> 00:18:28.925
But in general I just don’t use that and I

00:18:28.965 --> 00:18:30.173
keep it as it is.

00:18:30.349 --> 00:18:34.189
What I do sometimes is the temperature.

00:18:34.237 --> 00:18:38.501
For example, I sometimes get the temperature a little bit

00:18:38.533 --> 00:18:46.219
lower, for example to 28, 228 Celsius, because the degree

00:18:46.267 --> 00:18:49.851
level here will make it more likely to print very

00:18:49.883 --> 00:18:53.275
well, but do it really very, very slightly.

00:18:53.395 --> 00:19:00.275
So for example, if you go to 22,5 degree Celsius,

00:19:00.395 --> 00:19:03.555
you will have a problem because it may be that

00:19:03.595 --> 00:19:07.135
your PLA will no longer melt very well.

00:19:07.555 --> 00:19:10.515
So going to high is not good, going to low

00:19:10.555 --> 00:19:11.171
is not good.

00:19:11.243 --> 00:19:16.281
So in general keep it at 230 degrees.

00:19:16.460 --> 00:19:21.691
Maybe go to 228 degrees or something like that, but

00:19:21.803 --> 00:19:23.379
don’t play too much with that.

00:19:23.507 --> 00:19:25.775
It’s just not worth it in general.

00:19:26.155 --> 00:19:29.547
And the quality setting is something I often have a

00:19:29.571 --> 00:19:30.123
look at.

00:19:30.219 --> 00:19:35.983
For example, the infill level will, will determine how much

00:19:36.159 --> 00:19:38.355
material you will be printing with.

00:19:38.735 --> 00:19:41.871
This means that there will be a structure inside of

00:19:41.903 --> 00:19:46.967
the object you are printing and the structure will fill

00:19:47.031 --> 00:19:48.675
10% of your object.

00:19:49.135 --> 00:19:52.087
So if you need for example a very steady object,

00:19:52.231 --> 00:19:53.871
you would increase this.

00:19:54.023 --> 00:19:56.647
And if you for example, just want an object which

00:19:56.711 --> 00:20:02.663
looks good and which has no purpose to, or to

00:20:02.679 --> 00:20:06.127
be very steady as purpose to be very steady, you

00:20:06.151 --> 00:20:07.903
just don’t have to have a look at that and

00:20:07.919 --> 00:20:11.287
you just can leave it for example at 10% or

00:20:11.311 --> 00:20:12.275
something like that.

00:20:12.615 --> 00:20:19.279
So I did never print over 50% until now, 15%

00:20:19.367 --> 00:20:20.423
until now.

00:20:20.599 --> 00:20:25.785
And it is really, really hard to break anything here.

00:20:26.125 --> 00:20:30.757
That is the case because for example, Makerbot has a

00:20:30.781 --> 00:20:35.517
very nice structure in the object which will take much

00:20:35.541 --> 00:20:40.189
of the plastic away, but it will really just leave

00:20:40.237 --> 00:20:45.445
the steadiness at approximately the same level.

00:20:45.525 --> 00:20:50.493
Because the infills are not giving you any more stable

00:20:50.669 --> 00:20:54.475
object, but they are just increasing the height, the weight

00:20:54.515 --> 00:20:55.255
of it.

00:20:56.995 --> 00:21:01.667
Yeah, numbers of shells is something you don’t have to

00:21:01.691 --> 00:21:02.947
bow so much with.

00:21:03.131 --> 00:21:06.819
Again, if you increase this, the object will be more

00:21:06.867 --> 00:21:10.747
steady and more stable and the layer height is more

00:21:10.771 --> 00:21:13.011
or less the most important part here.

00:21:13.123 --> 00:21:16.315
Because I am often, for example printing at a layer

00:21:16.355 --> 00:21:20.936
height of 0 dot, for example.

00:21:21.066 --> 00:21:27.155
This is half the resolution the MakerBot Replicator 2 can

00:21:27.195 --> 00:21:27.775
do.

00:21:28.595 --> 00:21:29.003
Actually.

00:21:29.059 --> 00:21:36.811
You can even go with a much, much better resolution.

00:21:36.883 --> 00:21:42.191
Than for example 0.1, so 100 micrometers.

00:21:42.347 --> 00:21:49.198
There are people which have used MakerBot with your.

00:21:49.354 --> 00:21:57.735
With for example, a setting of 0.0.5, so they doubled

00:21:57.855 --> 00:21:59.263
the resolution again.

00:21:59.399 --> 00:22:02.151
But that’s just a little bit harder to print with

00:22:02.223 --> 00:22:04.415
and you will have more trouble to do that.

00:22:04.455 --> 00:22:07.439
And because of that, just go with a setting like

00:22:07.487 --> 00:22:11.663
for example, this one, because this is really a good

00:22:11.719 --> 00:22:12.023
setting.

00:22:12.079 --> 00:22:18.195
It will produce very nice objects and it’s twice as

00:22:18.235 --> 00:22:21.811
fast as the one that would be if you are

00:22:21.843 --> 00:22:25.467
going to print with layer height of 100 micrometers.

00:22:25.611 --> 00:22:26.043
Okay.

00:22:26.099 --> 00:22:29.187
And if you are ready, press on make it.

00:22:29.291 --> 00:22:32.539
And if you press on, make it, he will slice

00:22:32.587 --> 00:22:37.187
it at this point, verify it and start printing.

00:22:37.291 --> 00:22:40.339
I will stop it before it’s printing at my point,

00:22:40.467 --> 00:22:43.293
because I just don’t want to print that now.

00:22:43.419 --> 00:22:47.833
But in general it’s a fast process and you may

00:22:47.929 --> 00:22:53.809
have to wait, for example, I don’t know, maybe 10

00:22:53.857 --> 00:22:58.321
minutes if it’s a more complex object, but that’s the

00:22:58.353 --> 00:23:00.365
most time I had to wait for that.

00:23:01.585 --> 00:23:03.605
And that’s more or less that.

00:23:03.945 --> 00:23:07.145
So hope you have Fun with your MakerBot and with

00:23:07.185 --> 00:23:08.685
animation Master, of course.

00:23:09.235 --> 00:23:11.971
And if you have any questions, please feel free to

00:23:12.003 --> 00:23:14.611
ask me, for example, in my blog or do a

00:23:14.643 --> 00:23:19.331
comment below, or for example, if you want to use

00:23:19.363 --> 00:23:23.255
a contact form on my website.

00:23:23.635 --> 00:23:26.095
And let’s see what you can create with it.

00:23:26.635 --> 00:23:27.315
Have a nice day.